Banff, the Beautiful.
Banff is a place where memories are made—a destination you'll talk about for years to come. The glacier lakes are the bluest you've ever seen, the glaciers are massive and humbling, and the rivers are roaring and powerful. This enchanted place will leave you speechless.
Banff's natural beauty, including its lakes and mountains, earned it the distinction of being Canada's first national park and the world's third national park refuge. The name "Banff" comes from Banffshire, Scotland, the birthplace of two of the Canadian Pacific Railway's original directors. The park features mineral springs, ice fields, glacial lakes, and the renowned Lake Louise. Today, Banff National Park draws over 4 million visitors from around the world each year.
With so much to do, I relied on a few blog posts from Pinterest and AllTrails to plan our hikes due to limited time for research. Fortunately, many of the top recommended hikes and activities in Banff were consistently mentioned, making it easier to narrow down our itinerary. We aimed for the best of the best in Banff!
Hiking with Kids
Hiking with children offers countless benefits, from providing an energetic outlet to fostering an appreciation for nature. It encourages kids not just to look, but to really see what surrounds them, pushing their physical limits and filling them with newfound confidence when they reach the top of a trail they never imagined they could climb. And nothing compares to standing in a valley with your children, staring up together at an impossibly blue sky hanging over towering mountain peaks dusted with snow, sharing a moment of awe and wonder.
Johnston Canyon
We finally found parking at Johnston Canyon, only for a huge downpour to start just as we got out. After waiting for 15 minutes, hoping it would calm, we decided to try again the next day. Thankfully, it was sunny and beautiful, and we made it our priority to hike Johnston Canyon before leaving the Banff area.
Johnston Canyon, a 3.4-mile out-and-back trail, became one of our favorite hikes during our 7 weeks on the road! While our kids aren’t always excited about hiking, they were eager to keep going after the first elevated boardwalk brought much excitement. It’s the perfect hike for kids, with plenty to keep them engaged. The elevated boardwalks are fun to walk on and don’t feel like hiking at all. This trail takes you deep into the canyon, with wide paths and narrow bridges with railings that lead to the Lower and Upper Falls. For a unique perspective, continue further to the viewpoint at the top of the spectacular Upper Falls.
The trail is teeming with squirrels and chipmunks. At the Lower Falls, there’s a little cave where you can get up close to the falls and feel the spray of water (we waited in line for 20 minutes with little movement and chose to skip the cave). The Upper Falls is a bit steeper, but the kids made the trek happily. The only downside to Johnston Canyon is that it can get overcrowded, which can detract from the experience. We found parking around 3 PM each day after circling the lot a few times.
Lake Minnewanka
Lake Minnewanka is an excellent place to spend a day in Banff. With hiking opportunities, a boat cruise, and the perfect picnic area, you don’t need to rush through your visit. I recommend starting your time at Lake Minnewanka with the boat cruise. The Lake Minnewanka Cruise is a great way to get out on the water. The boat is fully covered, so you can choose to stay inside and listen to the tour guide share amazing facts about the lake, or you can open the windows or sit out on the back deck to take in the views. Our kids enjoyed learning about Banff National Park and Lake Minnewanka.
The lake got its name from the Stoney-Nakoda First Nations people, who called it Minn-waki, or “Lake of the Spirits.” It is 460 feet deep at its deepest point and is the largest lake in Banff National Park.
Here are a few fascinating facts we learned on the cruise:
A popular legend speaks of a mythical half-man, half-fish creature that once lived in the lake. The grotesque merman struck fear and panic in all who saw it swimming in the emerald water before it was allegedly captured. You can ‘see’ the remains at the Banff Trading Post!
The cool waters preserve a former townsite and burial ground, making it one of the best scuba diving sites in Banff National Park. It’s one of the top 10 spots in North America to catch this game fish—one of Alberta’s largest.
Fifty natural springs feed into the lake, which runs as deep as 148 meters, providing a great habitat for Lake Trout.
Boat cruises on Lake Minnewanka have been a tradition for over a century. The lake's first tour boat, the steam-powered Lady Brooke, set out in 1889. In the 1900s, the tradition continued with two cruise boats, Lady of the Lake and Daughter of the Peaks. Brewster Transport Co. complemented the adventure with horse-drawn carriage rides from Banff to the lake.
After the cruise, head to the picnic area and let the kids play along the shores of Lake Minnewanka before taking the Lake Minnewanka Scenic Drive across the old dam, built by kids aged 7-17 during World War II. We learned so much during our tour—there's so much history at this lake!
Cascade Ponds
Cascade Ponds is one of the best picnic spots in Banff. With incredible views of both Cascade Mountain and Mount Rundle, you can enjoy a leisurely walk around the ponds. The crystal-clear, shallow ponds are perfect for kids to splash around in during the warm summer months. The surrounding grassy areas are ideal for a game of frisbee or a family picnic, with several picnic tables and fire pits available for use.
Cave and Basin
No visit to Banff is complete without a trip back in time to the true birthplace of Canada’s first national park. Amidst the delicate ecosystem of the cave, the excitement of witnessing a natural marvel is palpable. This energy extends to the surrounding boardwalks, thermal pools, and hiking trails that lead to the Marsh Loop and Sundance Canyon. Cave and Basin has been a special place for Indigenous peoples for over ten thousand years and continues to be so today. In 1883, three railway workers discovered the thermal springs, sparking a series of events that led to the creation of Canada’s first national park. Today, the site is a gathering place for sharing stories about conservation and the connection between people and the land in Canada’s protected areas.
After visiting the Cave and Basin National Historic Site, take a nice, flat walk by the river. The trailhead is located right behind the historical site. The upper boardwalk takes you to the source of the thermal springs, while the lower boardwalk offers a scenic stroll through marshland with panoramic views of the Bow Valley Parkway.
Icefields Parkway, Oh My!
The Icefields Parkway is a scenic drive that winds through the majestic Canadian Rockies, connecting Lake Louise to Jasper National Park. As you traverse this awe-inspiring highway, make sure to stop at must-see attractions like Crowfoot Glacier, Peyto Lake, and the Columbia Icefield. If you plan to do the Glacier Adventure or explore the Icefields Parkway, there are numerous stops along the way. One stop you absolutely shouldn't miss is Peyto Lake. The colors of this lake seem almost unreal—it’s surreal to see in person. Peyto Lake is one of Banff’s most beautiful lakes, and the paved path up to the viewpoint makes it an easy outing for the whole family. Peyto Lake is a popular stop for tour buses, so be prepared to share it! From Peyto, we turned back around and stopped at multiple viewpoints. There are over 100 glaciers in the Canadian Rockies, including the Athabasca Glacier. There’s a reason why the Icefields Parkway is called the most scenic drive in the world!
Exploring Banff Townsite with Kids
While visiting Banff National Park, be sure to spend some time in the charming town of Banff. The town’s compact size and pedestrian-friendly streets make it easy to explore, ensuring you make the most of your time in this picturesque mountain town. We strolled along Banff Avenue, visited shops, bought souvenirs, and explored numerous t-shirt stores (yes, I love deals, but I also appreciate a great shirt and design, so I had to compare!). We kept looking out for the giant Banff sign but didn’t see it until we were on our way out of town. There was a line of people waiting for pictures, so be prepared to wait if you want to capture this iconic shot!
Before heading out to the boat tour (and surprisingly, we were running early that morning), our family stopped in at Whitebark Bar & Cafe in downtown. The bakery items were delish! I tried the sausage and fennel roll. The kids scarfed down their muffins. And caffeine was the perfect way to start the day ahead. Drew loved the environment so much that he decided to work there that day.
We also planned to walk through the Cascade of Time Garden, which is free and located downtown, but the increasing traffic made it difficult to make a U-turn. Despite being touristy and busy, the town of Banff is a cool mountain town. The experience is not diminished by the crowds, and I loved how you could see mountains all around you.
What We Missed…
Aurora Borealis
We would have loved to chase the Aurora Borealis, but we were all asleep by 9:30 PM each night, exhausted from days filled with hikes and exploration. Typically, the Northern Lights become visible after nightfall, usually from around 11:00 PM to 3:00 AM. However, on particularly intense nights, the auroras have been known to appear even earlier. While the Northern Lights can be spotted throughout the year, the best chances are during the winter months, from late September to early April. Clear, crisp nights enhance visibility, providing optimal conditions to witness this breathtaking phenomenon.
Here are the spots we consistently saw recommended for viewing this once-in-a-lifetime experience. With patience, preparation, and a little luck, you might catch the Northern Lights in Banff:
Vermilion Lakes: The most accessible location from the town of Banff for viewing the northern lights is Vermillion Lakes. Although they don’t provide as direct of a northerly view, the lights are often bright enough to dance over the Rundle range.
Cascade Ponds: This location tucked away in the forest is often overlooked, but with a clear view to the North, it’s a great location for taking in the show. Ample parking makes this a great option for those looking for a straightforward experience. From here - it’s just a short walk to the open picnic area near the ponds.
Lake Minnewanka: Lake Minnewanka is perhaps the most popular aurora viewing location, and for good reason. Being the largest body of water in Banff National Park allows for wide-open skies to fully appreciate the aurora display.
Bow Falls Viewpoint
The 1.7-mile round-trip hike to Bow Falls is another excellent option in Banff. The trail begins in town, just at the south base of the pedestrian bridge across the Bow River. It winds through a forested area along the river, offering several scenic viewpoints of the water and surrounding mountains, with benches to pause and take in the beauty. The trail is mostly flat, with a few sets of wooden stairs to navigate. While this hike is busy and popular, meaning it won't offer complete solitude, it rewards you with a platform overlooking the stunning Bow Falls at the end.
Banff Gondola with Kids
Taking the Banff Gondola is a fun and easy adventure for the whole family. As you ascend Sulphur Mountain, you’ll be treated to breathtaking panoramic views of six mountain ranges, the Bow Valley, and the town of Banff. If you haven’t experienced a gondola ride in the Canadian Rockies, this is a must-do activity. Since we had already enjoyed a few gondola rides elsewhere in the Rockies, we decided to skip this one and head straight to downtown Banff.
Wildlife Spotting with Kids
Spotting wildlife in Banff is an exhilarating experience for the whole family! We were thrilled to see a large herd of elk, mountain goats and some bighorn sheep. The best chances for wildlife sightings are on the secondary highways, either early in the morning or in the evening. While we were on the lookout for bears, we didn’t catch sight of any this time—maybe we’ll have better luck in Yellowstone!
Wherever you spot wildlife, always keep a safe distance and remain in your car. Never feed the animals, and don’t linger too long. Let’s do our part to keep Banff’s wildlife wild!
Where We Stayed
Tunnel Mountain Village I Campground
Located close to the Town of Banff, this unserviced campground offers a traditional camping experience with stunning mountain views, firepits for cooking, and easy access to hiking and biking trails. With 618 unserviced sites, including a limited number of large campsites, this campground caters to various camping preferences—though not all sites have fire pits.
We loved our stay here, but being without electricity, water, sewer, Wi-Fi, and phone service for four days was challenging! It was our first boondocking experience, and we learned a lot from it.
On our last night at Tunnel Mountain Village 1, we were pleasantly surprised by a visit from our friends, the Niggemann family from Germany, whom we had met just 10 days earlier at the campsite in Whistler, BC, EIGHT HOUR driving distance away from our current spot! They were on a two-week RV adventure, and although our paths weren't supposed to cross again, they made some changes to their schedule. Out of all the places they could have stayed, they ended up at the same campground as us! They spotted our RV while on a family walk, and we got to hang out together once more.
We love meeting new people, especially those who live far away. It was wonderful to learn about their lives and see our kids hit it off with new friends even if they did not speak the same languages. It truly was a small-world experience to run into them again!
Do You Need a Parks Canada Pass?
Yes, you will need a valid Park Pass to enter Banff National Park. Passes can be purchased online or at the park entrance gates. The cost is $10 per adult per day, and kids under 18 are free. If you plan to spend seven or more days in Canada’s national parks, consider purchasing an annual family pass for $150, which offers better value. Since we initially paid for five days in the parks, we decided to upgrade to an annual pass before leaving, as we plan to visit Eastern Canada in the spring. Reminder: If you’ve already paid for park fees in Banff and are visiting Yoho on the same day, you won’t need to pay again! You can just park hop!
Overview
I highly recommend visiting Banff—it’s the ultimate adventure for any family or solo traveler. There’s something for everyone, from the awe-inspiring mountains to the peaceful lakes. Banff is a place that will stay with you long after you’ve left, calling you back to explore more and immerse yourself in its stunning landscapes.